Rivers of Delight

Wednesday 21st August – Lowestoft to Southwold

Up the pole again…This time it was John’s turn to go up the mast at Lowestoft to fix the top of the roller reefing on the foresail.

We are in Hamilton Dock at Lowestoft where the marina that has been formed in part of the old fish dock is an unmanned off-shoot of the main establishment up river towards Oulton Broad. Everything is done remotely including collecting the dues. (Lowestoft is one of two places where the Norfolk Broads system joins the sea via Oulton Broad, Great Yarmouth being the other). Before leaving we need to fix the top of the furling gear. Geoff from the boat next to us kindly offers to winch John up and the job is duly done. Happily the other half of the offending collar is still up there so it appears that all is well.

We set off around 1130 for Southwold which is around 15 miles south and which once again has a tidal window to enter the harbour on the River Blythe. We have checked the time we can get in with the harbour master there as we find that it pays to use local knowledge rather than rely on the almanac. Once again the wind is on the nose so after trying to beat down the coast we end up motor sailing in order not to be late. However, it is sunny and we have a nice view of the Southwold waterfront as we pass by.

The River Blythe at Southwold. Strong tidal flows due to the tides filling and emptying the inland lakes and salt marshes make boat handling tricky. The river originally reached the sea further south but a great storm in medieval times changed its course so it now reaches the coast between Waberswick and Southwold.

There is a big swell running into the harbour entrance, which is narrow and between two lines of wooden piles. An Environmental Survey boat races in ahead of us, which is useful as we can see how it is tossed about at the entrance and which route to take. There is a big tidal flow coming out of the River Blythe so we have to motor hard to get in but in due course we reach the moorings along the river and are instructed to raft up against a bigger boat by the harbour master. There is such a strong tidal flow that it takes quite an effort with help from the harbour master to tie up but all is done.

The low lying land around the River Blythe at Southwold is prone to flooding so flood defences are a real need. This wall is a recent addition round the back of the houses and the Harbour Pub that front onto the river – presumably the buildings might get flooded but not the low lying land behind them?

We moor outside the Harbour Pub so we award ourselves a late pub lunch, sitting outside in the warm sun. At last, the summer we have been missing! The smoked fish and beer is excellent, both products of Southwold.

Lunch having been taken, we set off across the field and marshes to shop at Southwold which is about a mile away from its river. It is almost biblical, walking across the mown fields and crossing the little streams lined with bull rushes. The view has probably not changed for a century or two.

Southwold has not changed much over the past century or more. This is the Swan Hotel which overlooks the centre of the town. There have apparently been butchers in the row of shops  opposite for more than a century.

The path through the meadows towards Southwold from its harbour – probably unchanged for centuries.

Southwold is a Suffolk gem. It probably has not changed much since Victorian times. It is well known for its colourful beach huts and idiosyncratic pier. However, we stop at the town centre to stock up on food and to have a little look round the picturesque town centre. Southwold is also known as the home of Adnams beer. Shopping done, John takes a quick detour to photograph the lighthouse (which is in the middle of town), the brewery and some of the houses before rejoining Yvonne for an excellent locally made ice cream.

The Green at Southwold (although looking rather brown after a long hot summer).

We sit on the green eating the ice cream and watching the holiday makers and families. The grass of the green is rather brown so they cannot have had much rain here.

Back at the boat, the tide has gone out and we are just touching the bottom. The pub is still busy and along the quayside the various fishmongers are doing a good trade out of their wooden shops. We suspect Southwold is having a good season.

Part of the Adnams brewery at Southwold. Some of the brewery manufacturing space is located in former houses with the facade being kept to preserve the street character. Adnams do not miss a trick with their location in a tourist centre, offering brewery tours and even having their own gin distillery.

One oddity of Southwold is the light house located in the town centre rather than the sea front. However, we can testify that is is clearly visible from the sea! The Sole Bay Inn is the Adnams pub that backs onto their brewery

Ship’s log

Day’s run:                       17.3 nm

Total miles to date:          2083.3 nm

Engine hours:                  2.5 hours

Total engine hours:          254.0 hours

Hours sailed:                   3.0 Hours

Total hours sailed;           454.0 hours

Thursday 22nd August – Southwold to the River Deben

Swallows at Southwold – our guard rails and rigging were full of twittering birds when we awoke.

The harbour master confirms that there will be sufficient depth to leave over the sand bar at the harbour entrance by 0900 so we water up and get ready to depart. The current in the river is already flooding in very fast so we enlist the help of our neighbours on the adjacent boat to help us off. Sundart swings round with the stream to face out of the harbour as the warps are released but all is well and we depart without further ado. Our friends Julie and Paul Ashley have kindly offered the free use of their mooring in the River Deben so we plan to stop there for a couple of days to meet up with family and friends and relax as we sailed quite a few miles since our last stop at. Grimsby.

Even the lifeboat house at Southwold is a creosoted wooden shed!

Southwold has a long tradition of catching and selling its own fish from its harbour. The buildings are all traditional creosoted wooden sheds, which are generally well maintained and which fit in well with the surroundings.

The exit from the harbour is much less exciting than our entry and we are soon pointing south. We try to sail down the misty coast but the wind is very light and from the south so once again we end up motor sailing.

Sizewell nuclear power stations – quietly getting on with the job of generating electricity day in and day out whilst the politicians and civil servants fumble around with our energy policy. The dismantling of our ability to engineer our own nuclear power stations is one of the great political strategic failures of the last decades.

We pass the nuclear power stations at Sizewell as they quietly get on with providing electricity.

The radio masts in the mists on Orford Ness that transmit the BBC World Service – a wonderful institution that anyone who has lived abroad learns to appreciate for its unbiased and accurate news

Further south we pass the Georgian town of Aldeburgh and then Orford Ness with its red and white light house (now sadly decommissioned). We see the array of aerials from which the BBC World Service is transmitted which stand in a large circle on the Ness. Orford Ness is a very long spit of shingle and sand that has built up over the centuries, diverting the River Ore so that is now runs about 10 miles south, just yards from the sea in places and depriving the old town of Orford of its seashore in the process.

The “Pagodas” on Orford Ness – once used for testing of munitions. The buildings were designed to absorb the blasts and collapse in a controlled fashion if the experiments went wrong.

South of the lighthouse we pass the strange buildings known as pagodas that were part of the installations used to test munitions over a long period including the detonators for atomic bombs. There is no longer any military activity here and the public are allowed on to Orford Ness with limited access as there is still some unexploded ordnance around.

Just south of Orford is the island of Havengate, one of the first Nature Reserves for Birds to be set up and where the first colony of avocets in the UK established itself. (The avocet with its long upward curved beak is the emblem of the RSPB).

The entrance to the Deben is guarded by a Martello Tower, one of many from here southwards which were built in the Napoleonic Wars

The entrance to the River Deben has a reputation for being rather awkward as the sand and shingle banks at the entrance move around (so the buoyage has to be altered regularly) and there is a strong tidal flow in or out of the river. We phone George Collins, the venerable and ever helpful voluntary harbour master at Ramsholt where the mooring is on the Deben. George confirms the current buoyage and also that he has reserved a mooring right opposite the pub and jetty as requested by Paul Ashley – fantastic!

Sundart moored on the River Deben at Ramsholt amidst the Suffolk meadows

We find the fairway buoy without difficulty outside the Deben entrance and follow the buoyage into the river without problem and have caught the tides right so there is still a little bit of flood into the river. George has been as good as his word and we are soon moored up in a really lovely location – classic Suffolk river just as Constable would have painted it.

George Collins. For over 50 years he and his father have been the harbour masters at Ramsholt. The old red boat that serves as his office still floats on a spring tide.

Julie and Paul Ashley who kindly sorted out a mooring for us on the Deben and took us out for a meal.

We go ashore in the rubber dinghy to meet up with Julie and Paul who arrive at 5 pm to take us out to supper. We are introduced to George, who is well into his eighties. George lends us his trolley for our dinghy. George and his father before him have been harbour masters here for over fifty years, which must be a record. George does it voluntarily and very kindly donates the tip Paul would have given him for his services to our charity.

The Ramsholt Inn is closed tonight as they are hosting as charity do so we head off towards Woodbridge for a very pleasant meal and catch up with Paul and Julie as we haven’t seen them for quite a few years. They kindly treat us to supper. Paul now works at the huge container port at Felixstowe and has to be up early the following morning so we are delivered back to Ramsholt by 10. There is a moon over the meadows, rounding off an excellent evening.

Ship’s log

Day’s run:                       22.9 nm

Total miles to date:          2106.2 nm

Engine hours:                  4.0 hours

Total engine:                   256.0 hours

Hours sailed:                   5.0 Hours

Total hours sailed:           459.0 hours

Friday 23rd August – A day at Ramsholt by the River Deben

What a beautiful day and place with lots of bird song from the banks and river! We have arranged to meet our friends Linda and Mike for lunch at the pub and later will re-visit that establishment with John’s youngest sister Jo and her family and the Hen. The pub is duly booked, and then John catches up with some work whilst Yvonne sorts out the boat.

Samphire – common along the shores of  salt marshes and tidal rivers but not many people know how good it is to eat.

The lovely old church of All Saints at Ramsholt. A classic Suffolk church built of flint and stone with a round tower that probably dates from Norman times. The churchyard has mown pathways but is otherwise kept as a nature reserve.

We decide to go ashore early for a walk up to the little church on the hill with its old round flint tower. The walk is along the river bank then up through some meadows It proves to be a fine old church that is clearly still very much in use and cared for. We buy a local history of the area.

The interior of All Saints Church, Ramsholt, with box pews and a brick floor.

All Saints Church is clearly much loved with fresh flowers and a new seat outside to admire the view.

With our friends Mike and Linda plus dogs at the Ramsholt Arms. Good company, good food.

We pass a pleasant couple of hours with Linda and Mike, enjoying a beer and sandwich outside in the sun with their dogs.

Back on the boat John tries to remove the anchor winch motor, which has seized up, but without success – he sprays it with WD 40 and will have to return to battle with it another day.

Our trip round the UK has given us the opportunity to catch up with family and friends round the country.We enjoyed a family meal at the Ramsholt Arms with the Legoods and “the Hen”

John’s youngest sister Jo and her family (Bob, Hannah and Emily) braved the rubber dinghy to visit Sundart at the moorings on the Deben.

We meet up with John’s family – sister Jo and husband Bob plus daughters Hannah and Emily and the Hen. Jo has driven them all down here after a long day at her job at the N & N Hospital at Norwich. The Legoods trust themselves to being ferried across the river and back on the “rubber flubber” to visit Sundart before retiring to the Ramsholt Arms for an excellent meal. Hannah has passed her teaching degree with flying colours and has her first teaching job and Emily has good GCSE results so it is celebration time.

By 10 pm we are saying our goodbyes as they have an hour and a half drive to get back home.

It has been a good day in a lovely spot at the River Deben

Saturday 24^th August – River Deben to the Walton Backwaters.

The River Deben on a misty morning – reminiscent of an old painting except for the modern boats

The forecast was for a murky, rainy day so we are not surprised to wake to a very misty morning with low clouds. However, it makes for an atmospheric picture of the river.

Paul Ashley has recommended the Walton Backwaters to us which is where we are bound today but as we need to wait for the tides Yvonne cooks up a bean chilli for super whilst John seeks and finds the little leak in the rubber dinghy that we suspected last night, bit it is too wet to fix it today.

At 11 am we thank George again for his help and donation and set off down the river, sailing against the tide. At the entrance we boost the power with the engine to get over the flood coming in and reach the sea. The wind has helpfully gone round to the north so at last the wind and tide are all pointing in the right direction. We set the spinnaker and broad reach down the coast. We need to cross the busy shipping lane into Felixstowe container port but there is a succession of very large ships passing in and out with their attendant pilot boats and tugs so we drop the spinnaker by the shipping lane to wait for a gap then quickly motor across. The Port of Harwich issue a useful booklet which details the recommended crossing points along with lots of other useful information.

The shipping lane past we set the full sails and continue down with a light wind to find the fairway buoy that marks the entrance to the long way in over the shallows into the Backwaters. We are getting used to having very little water under the keel for many East Coast Rivers and passages which is commonplace for east coast sailors but a novelty for us coming from the south west cruising grounds.The Walton Backwaters are a large area of meandering waterways, salt marshes and low lying islands behind Walton-on-the-Naze. It was immortalised as the Secret Water in the book of that name by Arthur Ransom in his Swallows ands Amazon series of books. However, today the skies are threatening, the views are very misty and the forecast is for a lot of rain (it is Bank Holiday Saturday after all). As we enter the narrow Walton Channel there is a jumble of boats anchored and moored so we abandon our plans to anchor and decide to do a marina night to shower, fill up with stores, water, gas and diesel and go for anchorages in the better weather later this week. Titchmarsh Marina finds us a slot and we moor up as the heavens open. However, the Marina provides a friendly welcome, sorts out our gas shortage and we are soon settled in there.

Sundart has been co-owned by the same syndicate for 29 years – which must be a record. However, three of the five shareholders have decided to hang up their sailing boots. We have had a debate with the remaining co-owners about keeping Sundart but they have concluded that the boat does not really suit their future needs. We have also decided that much as we like Sundart it is really a bit too big for us to keep on our own so reluctantly the boat will have to be sold. It is a very sad decision as we have had a wonderful twelve years with the boat and syndicate, not least this summer Round UK trip. We visit the local broker at Titchmarsh to get some basic information on the process if the boat is sold through that route.

We retire back to the boat for the evening as the rain cascades down outside: not the best of days.

Ship’s log

Day’s run:                       12.5 nm

Total miles to date:          2118.7 nm

Engine hours:                  1.3 hours

Total engine hours:          257.3 hours

Hours sailed:                   4.0 Hours

Total hours sailed;           461.0 hours

Sunday 25th August – Walton Backwaters to the River Orwell.

Felixstowe – one of the busiest ports in the country, operating on a 24/7/364 basis. Much comes in, some goes out.

A distant view of Harwich from across the River Orwell at Felixstowe. Harwich’s long maritime history dates from around 1340 when Edward III’s fleet assembled there before sailing to defeat the French at the battle of Sluys. Harwich remains an important port, being the departure point for ferries to Scandinavia. Lightships used to be serviced here too and several are still moored in the Rivers Orwell and Stour, both of which enter the North Sea here.

We awake to a sunny morning with a light breeze. We have been recommended to visit the River Orwell by the marina manager so we decide to go there today, even though it is back north. We need to stock up on vittles so set out to walk to the shops. The Marina assures us it is “only half an hour’s walk” (we have heard that before). It soon becomes clear that it is a lot further than that. Yvonne has a sore knee so decides to turn back. By good chance a couple driving by us in the lane stop to offer John a lift to the shops: they are boat owners on their way to stock up who have had the experience of walking this route in the past. They are a godsend, ferrying John back to the boat laden with shopping. Our faith in Essex people is restored!

Stores stowed, water and diesel filled up we set off back out of the Backwaters. This is clearly a popular spot: the sunshine has bought out even more boats which are flooding into the area. Perhaps we will get the opportunity to explore this area at a quieter time in the future. We motor against the wind for a few miles before we can set the genoa and sail for the Orwell in the stiff northerly breeze. It is a lovely day for a sail. We pass the massive Felixstowe container terminal, with several ships being loaded and discharged. On the opposite shore is Harwich, older and with its own port (originally called Parkestone Quay after the Director of the Great Eastern Railway who built the modern port and rail link) which caters for ferries across the North Sea. It is a busy corner as the River Stour also runs into the sea at the same point.

The Orwell is home to many craft including Thames barges. It runs through woods, fields and marshes and has long been a beauty spot. Despite the volume of leisure and some commercial traffic it retains its calm and attraction.

Once past Felixstowe the River Orwell turns out to be delightful with tree lined banks interspersed with fields reaching down to the river. The river banks are flanked by rushes and mud flats. This is a popular boating river as well as carrying commercial traffic up to Ipswich about 12 miles upstream. There are several marinas and many moorings along some stretches but the river is big enough for there to be a general feeling of tranquility

A hazy sunset over the River Orwell

We sail on for about five miles to just below Pin Mill (made famous by various artists and a renown boating centre) where we anchor. It is a peaceful spot with curlews, cormorants and oyster catchers.  There are lots of boats sailing up and down the river including the occasional Thames Barge but the river is wide enough for everyone.

Anchored up, we read the Sunday paper, watching the world go by. Later, after supper, flocks of curlews fly over with their long, curved beaks making a distinctive sight. There is a glorious sunset. This is truly a delightful river.

Ship’s log

Day’s run:                       9.8 nm

Total miles to date:          2128.5 nm

Engine hours:                  1.5 hours

Total engine hours:          258.8 hours

Hours sailed:                   2.2 Hours

Total hours sailed;           463.2 hours

Monday 26th August – River Orwell to River Blackwater 

Pin Mill – made famous in by various artists and a favourite sailors’ haunt. There are numerous house boats, Thames barges and many old boats in various states of decay along the shore.

It is another lovely summer morning with lots of bird song. We up anchor, set the sails and sail a mile up river to have a look at Pin Mill. There are lots of boat houses and several Thames Barges. Sights seen, we turn round and head back to the sea.

Our next port of call will be the River Blackwater, the next estuary south. It is Bank Holiday and we cannot recall seeing so many boats out – we have become used to being the only boat around on much of our travels. However, there is room for all and it is a splendid sailing day.

We caught up with the barge Cambria as it slowly sailed along the River Blackwater off Mersea Island

The wind is northerly force 4 to 5 and the tide is running south so they are all going in our direction and we have one of the best sails of this trip, out of the Orwell and south past Walton-on-the-Naze and Clacton-on-Sea. These are classic seaside resorts with fun fairs, promenades and miles of beaches. We can see the crowds on the beaches.

At anchor off Osea Island in the upper reaches of the River Blackwater. The Edwardian manor was built by a brewer as a retreat for recovered alcoholics!

The navigation is interesting as there are various sand banks which have to be avoided. As we near the Blackwater the wind drops so we set the spinnaker and have a fine sail up the estuary. To the north we can see Mersea Island with the River Colne that leads up to Colchester. West Mersea is busy and we can hear loud music from there. To the south we see Bradwell with its power station and marina. We have not seen many motor boats out on our travels but Essex Man does not disappoint! There are water scooters and power boats of all sizes, all seeming to be run at maximum speed in all different directions.

The spinnaker decides to jam when we try to take it down but Yvonne is able to motor the boat round in big circles whilst John untwists the spinnaker from the forestay and calm returns. We no doubt provided a bit of entertainment for the locals! We anchor off Osea Island and do the British thing of taking tea and cake – crisis? What crisis?!

As the evening draws on the boats all go home and peace descends. It is another lovely spot.

Ship’s log 

Day’s run:                       28.9 nm

Total miles to date:          2157.4 nm

Engine hours:                  0.8 hours

Total engine hours:          259.6 hours

Hours sailed:                   7.0 Hours

Total hours sailed;           470.2 hours

Tuesday 27th August – River Blackwater to River Roach

Looking out to sea from Osea island. The traditional boat that has been dried out on the shore as the tide receded was being scrubbed in the traditional way. Although the island is private the shore between high and low tide is crown property and can be accessed by the public.

We awake to bright blue skies and warm sunshine. We breakfast on deck and watch a classic bilge keeled boat being beached and dried out as the tide drops, presumably for scrubbing and anti-fouling.

We set off sailing but the wind is light and gradually falls away so we end up motoring slowly out of the estuary. We are going south again, to the southernmost rivers in Essex – the Crouch and its tributary the Roach. The direct distance is not far but we have to track round the big sandbanks off this coast, which doubles the distance. It is a tedious process with little or no wind. Even the off-shore wind farm turbines are static. However, the sun is warm and we eventually get to the River Crouch. We decide to cut our losses and seek out the anchorage shown on the chart in the River Roach, which feeds into the Crouch near the sea. The anchorage is behind the Island of Foulness, which is where a military firing range is located, firing over the Maplin Sands out at Sea. As we motor in we see a red flag being lowered but think no more of it.

One man and his boat – homeward bound as the evening sun sets over the River Roach which runs through the Essex marshlands – a watery expanse of apparent nothingness but attractive in its own way.

The Roach is part of the maze of islands, marshes and watercourses that exist in these coastal parts of Essex and is surprisingly remote and desolate. It has a certain timeless beauty – it probably hasn’t changed round here for centuries. We have the river to ourselves.

We have supper on deck as the sun drops below the horizon. A lone yacht sails slowly by and a half moon rises over the marshes. In the distance we can hear oyster catchers calling.

Tomorrow we will cross the Thames Estuary to Queenborough to pick up our friend Janet Wragg before sailing up the Thames to London, the last and greatest of the cities we will visit on this trip.

Ship’s log 

Day’s run:                       31.4 nm

Total miles to date:          2188.8 nm

Engine hours:                  5.8 hours

Total engine hours:          265.4 hours

Hours sailed:                   6.0 Hours

Total hours sailed;           476.2 hours

A following wind and fair weather to you all.

Yvonne and John

Goodbye Scotland, hello England

Wednesday 7^th August – Dunbar to Eyemouth

Our noisy neighbours – kittiwakes with their young nesting in the old castle wall above Sundart

Dunbar harbour at low tide. The locals seem to be happy letting their boats lean over and re-float as the tide rises.

Sundart secured against the wall at low tide at Dunbar. The harbour entrance is to the right – blasted a hundred years ago through the rock and old castle walls. The kittiwakes were nesting in the castle wall above Sundart.

Pam Deacon will join us early this afternoon, which works out well with the tides for going south. The tide is out so Sundart is standing on her keel on the sand in the bottom of the harbour, propped up against the wall with a rope round the mast to stop the boat falling over. Other boats have gone over on their sides.

Against the wall at Dunbar. Access is via the vertical ladder up the harbour wall – not so great if you get caught out at night!

There are some interesting buildings in Dunbar – this is the old Town House.

The birth place of John Muir and now a museum dedicated to him. Muir is best known for setting up the National Parks in the USA. He was a great lover of the natural world. Muir Woods in California, just north of San Francisco, is a magnificent forest of giant redwoods named in his honour.

Statue in tribute to John Muir by Valent Zenoba in Dunbar High Street

We do chores in the morning and catch up on the blog and diary. The kittiwakes are very busy this morning, coming and going and causing much interest. The tide gradually comes into the harbour, lifting the boats up from their sides. A large seal comes swimming into the harbour.

Around midday we walk up into Dunbar for a few bits of shopping. Dunbar seems a nice little town with a proper High Street, mainly comprising of Georgian and Victorian houses set back from the road.

We walk past John Muir’s birthplace, which is now a museum in his honour. John Muir was a keen naturalist who emigrated to the USA from Dunbar and founded the National Parks there. He is commemorated in the USA by the Muir Woods just north of San Francisco – a forest of magnificent redwood trees, some of the tallest trees in the world. We have visited these woods and have now seen the start of that story. John walks up to the station to meet Pam whilst Yvonne (who has a painful knee) walks back to the boat. John passes the Town House, another museum on the High Street that is about old Dunbar but it is shut.

Dunbar High Street – a proper high street with attractive buildings.

Pam arrives and we walk back to the boat, passing the fine, new swimming baths and sports complex that overlook the harbour.

After lunch we leave via the amazing harbour entrance and set sail down the coast towards Eyemouth, our last stop in Scotland. It is a fine day with a breeze from the south so we beat down the last of the Firth of Forth and round St. Abb’s Head, with its cliffs and rock stacks. The wind falls so whilst John cooks vegetarian curry for supper, Pam and Yvonne take the boat down to Eyemouth. The entrance is fairly easy to find and negotiate and we call up the harbour master to get our berth allocation. As we pass through the high walled passageway into the harbour (known locally as the “canyon”) we pass several seals flopped out on the rocks, idly watching the passing boats. We moor up alongside a Dutch couple in their boat “Rascal”, who have also been sailing round the UK, albeit via the Caledonian Canal. Supper is ready once we have moored up at around 8 pm.

A good day and a pleasant sail.

Ship’s log

Day’s run:                       25.6 nm

Total miles to date:          1737.9 nm

Engine hours:                  1.7 hours

Total engine hours:          207.1 hours

Hours sailed:                   5.3 Hours

Total hours sailed;           381.7 hours

Thursday 8^th August – Eyemouth to the Farne Islands

The harbour at Eyemouth. Still an active fishing port where leisure and working boats mix amicably. The local harbour master and his staff are extremely helpful.

Eyemouth High Street – a pleasant little town.

Another fine sunny day. As the south going tide does not start until the afternoon we have the morning in port. This still means some chores so Yvonne & Pam sort out the laundry at the excellent port facilities whilst John pays the harbour dues and gets chatting to the harbour master. He is extremely helpful and provides a copy of the sailing directions for the Farne Islands by the Northumberland Cruising Club. (We found that the Clyde Cruising Club directions for the Orkneys and the North of Scotland have been the best sailing directions we have used and the Northumbrian version is to the same high standard). The people at the Port of Eyemouth run a busy fishing port as well as providing an excellent welcome and facilities for leisure sailors – it’s a smart move that wins on all fronts.

“Bertha” – the oldest steam driven boat in Britain. Designed by Isambard Kingdom Brunel in 1844 and used for over 120 years, it was the Bridgewater harbour “scraper” – used to scrape mud from the harbour floor and deposit in the River Parret to be washed out to sea. The boat operated by a system of chains, not propeller or paddle wheel. It is now owned by the Eyemouth International Sailing Craft Association and is part of the National Historic Boats Register.

It is possible to eat very well in the UK without having to go “foreign” – this is Lough’s Home Bakery in Eyemouth where they bake all their own product.

Jobs done we wander into Eyemouth. This is quite an attractive fishing post with a busy fish industry on the quays and a decent village behind. We find an excellent bakery and buy what is possibly the best almond cake/tart that we have ever tasted. Sadly, we have already stocked up on bread so have no room for the home baked variety here. We also find a proper little fish shop and buy a mixture of fish for a fish pie (Yvonne’s speciality). They are selling samphire – a delicacy that grows on salt marshes; it is bright green like tiny soft asparagus tips and is very tasty and nutritious. (This bunch came from Norfolk).

At two o’clock the tides are right and we leave Eyemouth, bound for the Farne Islands. Once again, we have the wind against us so we beat down the coast. The wind comes and goes, necessitating the use of the “iron sail” from time to time. It is an attractive coast with high cliffs and hills behind them. The East Coast mainline and the A1 road run along the top of the cliffs for much of the way down to Berwick on Tweed. We decide that a conspicuous hedge down some fields marks the division between Scotland and England so we ceremoniously lower the Scottish saltire pennant that has been fluttering from our flag halyard all these weeks.

The distant Northumbrian coast as seen from the Farne Islands. Bamburgh Castle is on the skyline, overlooking the shore whilst the Cheviot Hills are in the far distance. This is some of the best coastline in the UK with long sandy beaches and little habitation.

We sail on, passing the mouth of the River Tweed and Berwick and also passing from sea area Forth into sea area Tyne. We carry on down the coast, the wind increasing a bit as we pass by Holy Island and the ruins of Lindisfarne Priory and the castle. Lindisfarne Priory was founded in AD 634 and was subsequently sacked by the Danes in the 9^th Century but the magnificent Lindisfarne Gospels survived and are now preserved in the British Museum. Although we could anchor at Holy Island, we have decided to sail five miles further south to the Farne Islands to enjoy the wild life there.

Approaching the Farne Islands. Inner Farne is nearest, with its Pele Tower and lighthouse clearly visible.

We press on and by 8 pm we are anchored in a natural lagoon known as “The Kettle” at the island of Inner Farne. This lagoon is sheltered on three sides by islands linked by rocky reefs. We dine on the excellent fish pie with crushed new potatoes and the samphire. It is a tasty meal, although the samphire is quite salty. All around us the area is busy with wildfowl, mainly terns and shags busy fishing, presumably to feed their young. We will explore the islands tomorrow.

Ship’s log

Day’s run:                       26.8 nm

Total miles to date:          1764.7 nm

Engine hours:                  2.5 hours

Total engine hours:          209.6 hours

Hours sailed:                   6.0 Hours

Total hours sailed;           387.6 hours

Friday 9th August – Farne Islands to Amble

On Inner Farne Island with Pam Deacon. Sundart is anchored in the “Kettle” – a sheltered pool – in the background. We had peace and quiet in the evening with just thousands of birds around.

We sleep well and awake to the superb setting and wonderful views we have in this anchorage. After breakfast we decide to go ashore before the trip boats arrive so we inflate the rubber dinghy and paddle to the old quay. The islands are a Nature Reserve and are administered by the National Trust. Landing is only permitted on Inner Farne, Staple and Longhope Islands out of the fourteen or so islands.  Being NT members means no landing fees for us.

Sandwich terns in courtship ritual. These birds pair for several seasons

The rangers are all young and very friendly and helpful. They help us identify the birds and explain where the nests are. There are all four types of terns found in the UK here – common, arctic, sandwich and roseate. Sandwich terns are parading on the beach – it appears that they may have a second brood this year as it has been a good year with plentiful supplies of their staple diet of sand eels and kindly weather. Sandwich terns apparently pair up for several years.

St. Cuthbert’s Chapel on Inner Farne. St. Cuthbert lived a hermit’s life here around 676 to 685 until called to be the prior at nearby Lindisfarne Priory. He returned later and died on the island. This chapel was built in the 14th century and was restored in the 1840’s.

Pele Tower on Inner Farne. These towers are a feature of the north of England and most are a relic from the days when there was open warfare between Scotland and the English under Edward I. The towers were built by the locals to withstand short term siege and were self-contained with battlements on top to rain down arrows and missiles on unwanted visitors. This tower was built in 1500 and whilst being used as a fort was home to the grandly titled “Captain of Holy and Farne Islands”. It fell out of use in the late 1600’s and is now home for the National Trust wardens on the Farne Islands.

We walk up to the chapel of St. Cuthbert, the hermit monk who lived here for eight years around AD 676 in a stone and turf cell. He stayed there until summoned to be the Prior of Lindisfarne, which he reluctantly did, returning to Inner Farne later in life where he apparently died. Next to the Chapel is the Pele Tower known as Prior Castell’s Tower, typical of the northern borders of England with Scotland, where such sturdy stone towers were used for defence against maraudering Scottish reivers around the 15^th and 16th centuries.

Juvenile Arctic tern awaiting feeding by its parents.

There are young terns everywhere that seem to have no fear of humans, being totally focused on getting the next meal from their hard pressed parents. It can’t be long before the parents leave them to fend for themselves. We walk on up to the Lighthouse at the western tip. We can see the Northumberland coast line with the majestic Bamburgh Castle nearly five miles away across the water. There are cliffs at this end of the island with shags, kittiwakes and fulmars nesting. The offspring are nearly full grown with appetites to match.

Kittiwakes and their nest tucked into a niche in a sea cliff

Arctic Tern at Inner Farne lighthouse.

….whilst the fledgling decides Pam’s shoes are just the job for a morning snack.

Pam gets a close up of a shag fledgling…..

Shag and offspring

Juvenile shag awaiting feeding.

Juvenile shag. Most of the young birds we saw in August were getting near the time for them to leave the nest. At this stage the parents have a hard time keeping up with their off-springs’ appetite.

A young shag decides that Pam’s red shoes look like a tasty meal and follows her around, pecking the shoes – Pam is absorbed with getting close up photos before she realises the shag’s intentions! There are a few puffins left with their young, although the main cohort has left by now for the open sea where they live for ten months out of twelve. Sea birds are remarkably tough when one considers where they live for most of their lives. The trip boats start to arrive so we decide to return to Sundart.

Seals basking on a rock in the Farnes. They will start to pup in about a month or so time so they build up their food reserves in their bodies at this time of year… and rest up..

Longhope lighthouse, Farne Islands – home of Grace Darling and her father, the lighthouse keeper, when they performed their heroic rescue of the crew of the SS Forfarshire in 1838.

Before setting off for our next port at Amble, we motor round the islands as the sea is calm,, seeing many seals on the rocks. The seals will give birth to their pubs in a month or so time so they are building up their strength, ready for parenthood.

The easternmost island is Longhope where Grace Darling lived with her father, the lighthouse keeper. Grace and her father became overnight heroes to the Victorians after the courageously rescued some of the shipwrecked passengers of the SS Forfarshire in 1838. Sadly, Grave died aged 26 of TB. She was always embarrassed at the attention she received.

We set off south to Amble, the wind sets in and we have a lively sail down the magnificent Northumberland coast, passing the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle looking imposing on its headland and arriving at Amble at around half past four.

The memorial stone to Grace Darling in St. Cuthbert’s Chapel, Inner Farne. She died of TB about two years after her heroic life-saving deeds. She was embarrassed by the attention she got from the Victorian media and public.

Pam Deacon and grand-daughters, Katie and Gracie.

Pam is leaving us here as her son Jono and daughter-in-law Megan live nearby with their two young daughters. Megan and girls duly arrive and after coming on board depart with Pam. A little while later Pam phones us with and invitation to share a take-away curry at Megan and Jono’s home. Jono is on night duty at his veterinary practice so we sadly won’t meet him but we accept the invitation with pleasure.

Megan Deacon exercising the dogs in the river at her and Jono home at Warkworth, Northumberland. The river is semi-tidal, hence the sandy beach.

Jono was a very active member of the Staunton Harold Sailing Club in his youth when the Deacon’s lived in the East Midlands so we know him well. He has established his own, very successful practice outside North Shields and lives with his family at Warkworth, by the River Coquet just inland from Amble in a delightful spot with fields for Megan’s horses and a section of the river bank.

Despite Jono’s absence we have a very pleasant evening before being returned to Sundart. Another good day.

Ship’s log

Day’s run:                       19.6 nm

Total miles to date:          1791.3 nm

Hours sailed:                   4.1 Hours

Total hours sailed;           391.7 hours

Warkworth Castle – used for the recent film “Robin Hood” starring Kevin Costner

Saturday 10^th August – Amble to Tynemouth

The centre of Amble. Once a port devoted to exporting coal, it has had to re-invent itself since the decline of the coal trade.

We can’t depart from Amble until 3.30 pm as there is a cill at the marina entrance (to maintain the marina water level at low tide) and we need the south going tide. Yvonne does another laundry run whilst John attacks the blog. We then walk into Amble to do a bit of shopping and see what Amble is about.

The harbour (originally known as Warkworth Harbour) was originally set up on the estuary of the River Coquet to export coal. The demise of that industry in the 1960’s meant that Amble has had to find other occupations whilst the harbour has become the marina with some quay sides along the river for fishing boats.

Once we are able to leave Amble Marina, we have an excellent sail down the coast. The wind is in the west and a good strength so we initially set a couple of reefs and reach down the coast. We are going so well that we decide to by-pass our original stopping point at Blythe and carry on to the River Tyne. As time goes by the wind reduces a bit and we shake out the reefs and happily sail on.

The entrance to the River Tyne by the fish dock. The two large white towers are the leading marks to enter the river – the biggest such marks we have seen so far. (When ships are on the right course to enter from the sea the two towers are lined up).

The entrance to the Tyne at Tynemouth has some fine landmarks, including the ruins of Tynemouth Monastery and the statue of Admiral Collingwood, Nelson’s second in command at Trafalgar and Tyneside’s most famous son of the sea.

We reach the entrance to the Tyne at around half past seven. The Tyne is, of course, a major river but we are surprised at the size of the entrance with some very substantial breakwaters on each side and the biggest leading marks we have seen. On the north shore (the North Shields and Whitley Bay side) we can see the imposing ruins of Tyneside Abbey on the headland and the statue of Admiral Collingwood.

The Tyne is still a busy river with commercial traffic. We met this huge Ro-Ro ferry complete with tugs and pilot boat as we went up the river by North Shields. We like to think it was full of cars for export from the Nissan plant at nearby Sunderland.

We are initially surprised at how quiet the river is but as we round a bend we are confronted by a huge Ro-Ro ship being tugged down the middle of the river – we hug the right bank as it slowly passes by.

We soon reach the Royal Quays Marina at North Shields and lock in. The marina attendant takes our lines for us, then works the lock and then runs round to take our mooring lines at the pontoon – very impressive service! This marina is in a huge old stone built harbour basin and is run by the same people who run Neyland Marina at Milford Haven so we are not surprised by the level of service.

Ship’s log

Day’s run:                       21.4 nm

Total miles to date:          1812.7 nm

Engine hours:                  1.2 hours

Total engine hours:          213.7 hours

Hours sailed:                   5.0 Hours

Total hours sailed;           396.7 hours

Sunday 11^th August – North Shields to Hartlepool.

We plan to leave at lunchtime to take the tide down the coast to Hartlepool so we have the morning free. John does the routine engine checks then we walk up the hill to the nearby village shop for a Sunday paper.

Royal Quays, North Shields was formerly known as Tyne Commission Quay (the name still lingers on as the car park name). John remembers catching the ferry to Norway from here over 25 years ago when the train delivered passengers direct to the ship side. Ferries still ply to Scandanavia from here, such as the DFDS ferry to Denmark moored on the left. The Royal Navy corvette HMS Severn is also moored there: this vessel and her sister ship are employed on coastal patrols and fishery protection work.

John thinks that this area was once known as the Tyne Commission Quay, from where he sailed to Norway on several occasions in his teens, arriving at the dockside by train direct from Kings Cross, London. We check with the Marina Manager who confirms this, showing us old photos of the Quay. The marina is built in the old docks once used for coal export. There has been considerable rebuilding and renovation all around the area with many new houses. Across the river at South Shields we can see new offices, an Asda and more houses. Clearly there has been a huge effort to regenerate this area and it appears to have paid off. We wander over to the riverside where we can see that a Royal Navy corvette has just moored up. This is HMS Severn, which is engaged with her sister ship on coast patrol, fishery protection, surveillance and general coastal security. Just up stream is a huge DFDS ferry, so ferries still ply from here to Scandinavia. The quays are now known as the Royal Quays. Only the car park retains the old name of Tyne Commission Quay. It starts to rain so we run back to Sundart, and read the Sunday papers until lunch.

We book our exit time from the lock and leave at half past two. It is much windier today than yesterday so after taking a photo from the river of the old TCQ we set part of the genoa, run out of the river and set course to reach down the coast. It is a fast and exhilarating sail, travelling at up to 7.5 knots, using just part of the foresail for motive power. The sea is relatively flat so we make excellent progress, passing Sunderland (where we can see the Stadium of Light) and Seaham. (In recent times Sunderland has been known for ship building, football and most recently Nissan cars but it was also where the monk, the Venerable Bede lived in the 7^th century).

Hartlepool formerly had a huge expanse of dockyard. This is the old dock, with the marina at one end and the Maritime Heritage museum at the other and a large expanse of water little used in between. There remains a commercial port but in a different area and with its own entrance from the sea adjacent to this. The task of rejuvenating this area has been immense and although it is now tidy and has had much investment there remain plenty of empty spaces.

As we get near Hartlepool we see the old town with attractive painted cottages along the sea front. There is a “tidal gate” at Hartlepool as the entrance to the harbour and marina dries out but we arrive in good time, locking into the marina by 7pm. The harbour basins are huge, with a separate basin with its own approaches for the remaining commercial traffic and the basin we are in. We later find out that this was a big boat building area. The marina occupies part of the basin and in the distance the Marine Heritage Centre occupies another part but there is a lot of empty space – there must have been a lot going on here in past times.

Ship’s log

Day’s run:                       21.5 nm

Total miles to date:          1834.2 nm

Engine hours:                  1.2 hours

Total engine hours:          214.9 hours

Hours sailed:                   4.0 Hours

Total hours sailed;           400.7 hours

Monday 12th August – Hartlepool to Runswick Bay

It’s afternoon tides again so we decide to explore the immediate vicinity.

Residents of Hartlepool are known as “Monkey Hangers”. The story is that in the Napoleonic Wars a Portuguese ship called in and being a foreign ship was detained by the locals who believed that all foreigners were enemies. Portugal was Britain’s only ally then but despite the mayor’s intervention the townspeople insisted on hanging a member of the crew so the Portuguese offered the ships monkey who was duly hanged with ceremony and honour was apparently satisfied all round.

As with so many ports, Hartlepool is much smaller than formerly. This the fine old Harbour Office, now converted to flats.

The old town is about 3 miles away so we opt to walk round the harbour to the Maritime Heritage Centre. As with so many of these old harbour basins there has been a lot of redevelopment around it, using the waterside to its best advantage. Much has been done here (although there remain quite a lot of open areas just grassed over or in use as car parks). The redevelopment has been well done, with some of the old buildings rejuvenated and turned into flats or offices.

The restored HMS Trincomalee is the centrepiece of the Maritime Heritage Centre at Hartlepool and forms part of the rejuvenation of this old port area.

The Maritime Heritage Centre is focused around HMS Trincomalee, a 3 masted frigate dating from 1817. For the second time this trip we are presented with a ship that claims to be the oldest British warship afloat. (Only the USS Constitution is older in the world).

HMS Trimcomalee – fully restored by 2005 and now claimed as the oldest warship afloat in the world – a claim disputed by HMS Unicorn (Dundee) and USS Constitution (USA). Either way, it is a beautifully restored ship and well worth the visit.

Remarkably, this ship is the same class (the Leda class) as the Unicorn at Dundee but was built in Bombay at the Wadia shipyards from teak as oak was becoming in short supply in England following the Napoleonic Wars. (The Unicorn was built in 1824 from oak in the naval dockyards in Chatham). Like Unicorn, this ship was put into the reserve but unlike the Unicorn, Trincomalee was later put into active service, being fully fitted out and serving two commissions, keeping the “Pax Britannica” in Canada,  the Caribbean and the Pacific before being retired in 1857. From then until 1897 the ship was used for training in various locations before being sold for scrap. By chance, the privately owned TS Foudroyant had just sunk so its owner, Wheatley Cobb, snapped up Trincomalee as a replacement. She was used for training until 1986, when demand for naval type training dwindled. It was decided to restore the ship, a Trust was formed and funds gradually raised. The ship was taken to Hartlepool on a floating dock and floated into the old graving dock that is now the centre of the museum. All the restoration was done there using local skilled labour, being finally completed in 2005 at a cost of £10.2 million.

The figure-head and cats head – ornately carved as was the style of the day. The figurehead is said to be modeled on the head of the Wadia family, shipwrights of Bombay who built this ship to the Admiralty Leda class frigate design.

The origin of the term “copper bottomed investment”: copper plates were fixed to many wooden ships to deter marine growth and help preserve the timbers as copper has bactericidal properties. Trincomalee was re-tarred and copper plated as part of the restoration.

The ornate stern and captain’s jolly-boat.

All the masts and rigging were replaced during the restoration, although the masts are actually galvanised steel, not timber. The signal flags read “Welcome to Trincomalee”.

View from the crows nest.

The captain’s quarters. In the Navy, the Captain traditionally did not mix with the officers to any great degree whilst the actual sailing of the vessel was organised by the ship’s master.

The Lower Deck where the crew lived in cramped conditions. Part of the Navy discipline included daily cleaning of the ship, a factor that helped enable the British to keep their ships at sea over long periods, even though the quality of the food left much to be desired due to the limited means of preservation then available.

The Wardroom, where the officers lived. The officers’ cabins open up off this room – a system still in practice a hundred years later on the RRS Discovery which we saw in Dundee.

The ship has been magnificently restored, complete with new rigging (albeit with steel replica masts that look like the originals) and period artefacts. The photos show some of the results.

We wander round the period style buildings around the dock with their heritage displays and video presentations before exploring the ship then returning to Sundart for a late lunch.

A lot of the cannon are fibre-glass replicas but Yvonne sought out one of the few real cast iron canon on board with the monogram of King George cast in the barrel.

More information can be found at More about Trincomalee.

The Wingfield Castle – a product of the ship builders who were formerly at the graving dock that HMS Trincomalee now occupies. Its sister ship, the Tasttershall Castle, is on the Thames being used as a restaurant.

John has found that it is cheaper to buy diesel here in cans rather than direct from the marina pump (some tax arrangement that we don’t fully understand) so manages to acquire a redundant diesel can and tops up the fuel.

The former Corus steelworks at Redcar – one of the few remaining steel production sites in Britain. The blast furnace was mothballed two years ago by its then owners, Tata, before its sale to a Thai company who re-commissioned it at great expense in April. The plant is losing money due to poor worldwide demand for steel and ruthless Chinese competition.Rain clouds approaching!

The little village of Staithes with its tiny harbour in front. This was Captain Cook’s birthplace. The houses and narrow streets cling to the steep hillsides. Cars have to stay parked on the top. The North Yorkshire Moors stretch out behind.

The marina manager at North Shields recommended an anchorage at Runswick Bay, east of here just before Whitby so we decide to take the first lock out of Hartlepool on the afternoon high tide at 4 pm and sail down the coast. In the distance we can see the Corus steelworks at Redcar, one of the few remaining steel making operations in the UK. Merchant ships which are anchored up off the coast to the east of Hartlepool start to get called into the port of Middlesbrough up the River Tees as the tide rises and the port authority calls them in so we have to avoid them as they need to follow the shipping lanes. We have to skirt round a new wind farm off Teesside that is so new it is just being commissioned and did not feature in the chart corrections we did over the winter.

The wind is fickle so we sail and motor intermittently, passing Maersk-by-the-Sea, Saltburn-by-the Sea and Staithes (the birthplace of Captain Cook and now a pretty little fishing village with a tiny harbour and houses perched up the steep hillside). We also pass Boulby, site of a potash mine that is the one of the deepest in Europe at over 1 km below ground and 2 miles under the sea. (It was recently used to hunt for the mysterious quark by astro-physicists as most particles from outer space do not penetrate that deep into the earth). There are some strange cloud formations and spats of rain but these blow by out to sea.

We reach Runswick Bay and anchor by a couple of other boats opposite the village. (During the 1680’s the original village slipped into the sea: the modern village consists of houses wedged into the unstable hillside). Although there is now little wind and calm is forecast, there is a swell coming into the bay. We hope it will die down overnight.

Ship’s log

Day’s run:                       16.0 nm

Total miles to date:          1850.0 nm

Engine hours:                  3.4 hours

Total engine hours:          218.3 hours

Hours sailed:                   4.0 Hours

Total hours sailed;           404.7

Tuesday 13th August – To Whitby

The entrance to Whitby harbour. This is the only natural harbour on this stretch of coastline. Whitby Abbey ruins are a distinctive landmark on the south headland. The swell made the entry exciting!

The boat rocked all night in the swell so we are up at 0600 and decide to decamp to Whitby, five miles down the coast. Whitby marina is in the inner harbour which has to be entered past a swing bridge within two hours of either side of high tide. Happily, we can get in from 0800 so we set off. It is a beautiful morning as we skirt the coast, past Sandsend (where the mineral jet can be found which is worked into jewellery) to the harbour entrance. There is still some swell running and the entrance is a bit rolly-poly – we simply rev up the engine and pass in without difficulty into the calm within the outer harbour.

The fine Edwardian iron swing bridge at Whitby. Opening every half hour near high tide preceded by a clanging of a hand bell. Recently restored to its former glory.

The view of the town from the marina. Whitby seems to have been able to blend old and new houses together in an attractive way, keeping to traditional materials in the main.

Whitby is the only natural harbour down this length of coast and has had an established harbour for hundreds of years. It is a pretty town, with many 18^th century red brick and tiled houses up the steep sides and the very imposing ruins of the abbey on the south headland. Newer houses seem to have been designed to fit in with this style and colour of building whilst the old shop fronts have been retained. A call to the marina reveals that it is full so we have to tie up just below the swing bridge to await some boats coming out. It was their regatta night last night with fireworks on the front so the town is in clean up mode. Eventually, we are allowed in at 0900 and after radioing the bridge keeper to open the bridge we pass through the lovely Edwardian iron swing bridge and moor at the marina.

Like many smaller ports, Whitby has kept some local ship repairing and building. This fishing boat is lodged in a floating dock undergoing renovation. The notice on the shrouding in the background proclaims that they are keeping their tradition alive, building a new boat under the scaffolding and sheeting.

After showering at the new and very smart facilities we walk over to the big Co-op superstore opposite to stock up. Whitby is in full holiday mode – crowds of people milling about in the warm sunshine, coaches depositing their tour passengers all down the street, a steam train from the North Yorkshire Moors Railway puffs into the station and quantities of fish and chips and ice cream being consumed. It’s a proper English holiday place in full swing. Yorkshire accents surround us – we are in proper Ecky Thump Country! (Accents have probably changed more as we travel down the north-east coast from Scotland than perhaps anywhere else).

Church Street in old Whitby – largely traffic free and thronged with people and shops.

Shopping done and lunch eaten, we set of to explore Whitby. Progress is slow due to the crowds but there is plenty to look at as we wander along.

There are delightful alleyways off the main streets in old Whitby with the old cobbles and converted stabling.

We cross the river Esk via the swing bridge to the oldest part of town on the south side and come across the Captain Cook Memorial Museum by the river.

The Captain Cook Museum is located int he house where he was apprenticed to John Walker to learn his craft. The apprentices were housed in the attic. The Walkers were Quakers and had a reputation as firm and fair with high standards but they were not interested in the fancier side of life. Cook learnt much here and remained friends with his former employer throughout his life.

As is well known, Cook was one of the greatest explorers and cartographers to have come from Britain, having been responsible to charting as diverse a span of territory from the St. Lawrence River in Canada (where he enabled General Wolfe to capture Quebec and thus make Canada British) to the north-west passage, Australia, New Zealand, many of the Pacific Islands and even bits of Antarctica. He learnt his sea-faring trade on colliers operating out of Whitby as an apprentice to Captain John Walker, lodging in Walker’s house with the other apprentices in the attic of the house that is now the Cook Museum.

The view over the River Esk from the Captain Cook Museum. This is the outlook that Cook would have had when an apprentice living in this house, learning his seamanship. His master’s ships would have been drawn up on the hard below the house.

The house is a fascinating collection of letters, maps, artefacts collected from Cook’s travels and information on Cook’s life and times. Cook remained friends with John Walker even after he went on to great things and there are many samples of their letters. (Cook is just one of very many people who have made significant contributions to the welfare and prosperity of Britain who was not honoured by any form of official recognition such as a knighthood. One could add many others to that list – other explorers such as Livingstone, Scott, Shackleton, engineers such as the Stephensons (of both railway and lighthouse fame), Brunel, and so on. Yet to this day anonymous politicians and civil servants get the bulk of honours).

The climb to the Abbey is up 199 steep steps out of the old town. The road to the left was presumably for pack horses, not carts!

The view out to sea at Whitby. Not much will have changed since James Cook’s day – perhaps a couple of new houses and additional lights at the harbour entrance.

We finish the Cook Museum and as we are now rather “nautical museumed-out” we buy ice creams and walk up the 199 steps to Whitby Abbey.

The Abbey buildings date from the 13^th century and are said to be the inspiration for Bram Stoker’s novel Dracula. This is the second place down this coast that we have come across this claim – perhaps the tourist industry assume tourists don’t travel as far as us! The Abbey was dedicated to St. Hilda and housed both nuns and monks and produced nine saints, five local bishops and the Saxon poet Caedmon. St. Hilda was one of the greatest Christian leaders of her time, her successes include persuading the church to adopt a unified way of calculating when Easter should be and for bringing together the Celtic and Roman branches of the Church. The view from the hill by the Abbey is superb but we decide we have done enough visiting today and do not go into the abbey remains or museum.

The ruins 13th century Abbey dedicated to St. Hilda are said to have been the inspiration for “Dracula”.

The inner harbour and marina as seen from the Abbey Hill. The town was by-passed in the 1980’s by the high bridge in the background.

Philip and Lorna Laughton met up with us at Whitby.

We finish our ice creams and return to the boat. We have been in contact with Philip and Lorna Laughton, John’s brother and sister-in-law from his first marriage to Ann, who live at Saltburn to arrange to meet up with them this evening. They arrive around seven so we have drinks on board before repairing for fish and chips at the Shambles, an eatery housed in the former Burberry factory by the waterside in the old part of town. It has been quite a few years since we last got together so there is much to catch up on. Their eldest daughter, Sarah, will get married to Ian next June so they are getting into wedding mode. We round off the evening with coffee back on board. After Philip and Lorna leave we soon crash out for a good night’s sleep. Tomorrow we plan to continue down the coast to either Scarborough or Bridlington.

Ship’s log

Day’s run:                       5.1 nm

Total miles to date:          1855.3nm

Engine hours:                  1.3 hours

Total engine hours:          219.3 hours

Hours sailed:                   2.0 Hours

Total hours sailed;           406.7 hours

A following wind and fair weather to you all.

Yvonne and John

Salcombe sojurn

Tuesday 14th May

Since arriving here has been very windy, blowing from the west and effectively stopping our progress westwards. We have been anchored opposite the Salt Stone about a mile up the estuary above Salcombe in a peaceful sheltered spot with cormorants and egrets for company and just the sound of the tide tinkling past the hull at night. We have been venturing down to town once a day to charge up the battery and get water & provisions.

Over the past 2 days we have passed our time doing jobs on the boat including greasing two winches that showed signs of seizing up, re-buttoning some of the upholstery, fixing catches and so on – there are always things to do on a boat!. The big job has been dismantling the electric anchor winch which has stopped working. This means we have  to lift the anchor by hand which is a good physical exercise given that we have been putting 25 meters of chain out to ensure we are firmly fixed to the bottom of the estuary when the wind blows! A new pair of leather gloves are purchased to help with this task. The motor has to be removed from  within the anchor chain locker in the bow of the boat which is a really confined area accessed through a small hatch. Much huffing & puffing by Paul & John sees the motor out. It appears that the Italian manufacturers have gone out of business so we motor the mile or so to Salcombe to go to Island Street where all the chandlers and proper old-fashioned workshops are located to find an electrical engineer. The motor is dismantled and made to run again by Andy J. Further huffing and puffing finally sees the motor back in, only to find that it works for about 2 seconds under load then jams up again. Back to square one! Telephone conflab to other co-owners for help to locate spares or a new one. The story continues…

Tuesday brings an even worse weather forecast – rain and a storm force 10 warning and a weather map looking like a training exercise for Met Office forecasters wannabees! So another day hiding from the weather. 

We decide to shower at Salcombe Yacht Club – a fine establishment with a proud history stretching back to gentlemen racing their yachts in the Victorian age. The club is situated on the hill with a prime view over the Fairway (the principle part of the waterway in front of Salcombe) – this is millionaires territory with property prices to match. The showers are new and very  welcome. We are amused by the door signs.

Normally the view from the club lounge is tremendous but today…

We meet other boat crews at the Club, all stranded by the weather. Consensus is that the weather will let us out tomorrow. Hope springs eternal!

Fair winds to you all

Yvonne John & Paul

Welcome to our Blog!

Welcome to Yvonne and John’s web site about our round the UK sailing trip and our first blog

Thank you for logging onto our blog. We hope you will find it interesting.

Our plan is to sail round the four countries of the United Kingdom – England, Wales, Northern Ireland and Scotland. We expect to take about four months covering 2500 miles or so and stopping at between 50 and 60 places. We want to take the trip in fairly short stages so we can enjoy the wonderful variety and beauty of the coast line and the towns and villages that form so much of our heritage. As part of our trip we are collecting for our chosen charity – SUDEP Action (which specialises in support, education and research into Epilepsy) in memory of John’s daughter Helena who died of this disease.

We have put this website together to give more information on the trip, the boat (“Sundart”) and our charity. We plan to update this front page as we go along, reporting on progress, the sights and places we have seen and the friends and family who have accompanied us at various stages. If you want to follow this blog please click on the “follow this blog” link on the right of one of the pages. If you want to know more about the boat, our planned route, who is coming with us and our charity click on the pages of this website

We have gradually been preparing for this trip over the past few months. Working with our co-owners and friends, the boat has had its full winter maintenance which involved over 40 repairs, checks and items to be serviced. This has included drying the boat out against the harbour wall in Dartmouth out to apply anti-fouling and service the underwater components such as the propeller and anodes (which stop the salt water corroding the metal parts). The safety equipment including the life raft, life jackets, fire extinguishers, hand rails, safety lines and flares have been checked and serviced. The sails and rigging have been checked and quite a lot of the standing and running rigging (ropes to non-sailors!) has been replaced. The engine has been serviced (as despite being in a sailing boat the engine is critical to our progress and safety). We rely on batteries charged from the engine to supply all our electrical power for our navigation instruments, lights and on board power so that system has been overhauled. We can be fully self-sufficient on the boat, carrying all the fuel, fresh water and stores that we need. We have a gas powered galley (cooker), fridge and pumped fresh water system with the hot water being heated from the waste heat from the engine. The gas system and alarm have been checked and the galley grille is being repaired (so we can enjoy our morning toast!). The curtains and cushions have been washed, the heads (loos) serviced and the ‘fridge and boat cleaned so we can enjoy our creature comforts during the trip.

Over the winter we have purchased and updated over 150 secondhand and new charts that we need to navigate round the UK. These are now packed up together with a box of over 20 pilot books and tidal atlases plus the odd cook book and reading book! Our navigation instruments are packed and the boats papers are all on board. Over the next couple of weeks we will pack up our clothing, which ranges from heavy weather “oillies” and boots to tee shirts, shorts and swimming suits (surely we must be due for a good summer?….!). We will be taking our laptop,  tablet and mobile phones so we can keep in touch and use the web to download the  weather and maybe even the odd TV programme if we are in range of a Wi-Fi hot spot. The boat has a CD player & radio so some music will be packed. (Note to people coming with us: pack a few of your favourite CD’s!)

Our plan is to leave Sundart’s home port of Dartmouth on or around the 11th May with Paul Williams, who is accompanying us on the first leg round Lands End to South Wales. From then on we hope to keep more or less to our schedule (which is in the “where are we going” page) but as ever the weather and our inclinations will determine our progress.

We would love to hear from our friends and family on our trip , which can be done by using our normal mobile numbers or e-mail addresses or by clicking this link

Happy days and fair weather to you all

Yvonne & John